Jan
24
Today I wanted to try something different, something more challenging, something I had never done before. I saw this recipe and immediately knew that this was exactly what I was looking for! Soufflé au Chocolate from Julia Child’s book, Mastering the Art of French Cooking.
To be honest, I have never made a soufflé in my life. I have seen many skits about the process in sitcoms on network television, but in almost every case it goes badly. Soufflés are probably the most delicate dishes I have ever seen, if those TV shows are to be believed. Once it goes into the oven, everyone in the house needs to whisper and tip-toe around because the slightest disturbance will make it deflate and thereby end all chances of accomplishing something amazing. So it was with a bit of trepidation that I attempted this dish.
Step 1: Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
That was pretty easy, so I was on my way.
Step 2:
- 1/2 Tbsp softened butter
- A 6-cup soufflé mold
- 2 to 3 Tbsp cake flour
Butter the soufflé mold and roll cake flour in it rather than sugar; knock out excess. Measure out your ingredients.
Yes, I went out and hunted everywhere for cake flour because I thought it was vital to the recipe. (It’s not an inexpensive item.) When I realized that all I was using it for was to “butter and flour” the mold, I wasn’t exactly a happy camper. I’m sure regular all-purpose flour will be able to do the same job.
Step 3:
- 3 1/2 ounces or squares of semisweet baking chocolate
- 2 Tbsp strong coffee
- A small saucepan set over almost simmering water
Stir the chocolate and coffee over the almost simmering water until chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove from stove and keep over hot water until ready to use.
Whenever I need chocolate, my preference is for something from the Ghiradelli line. It’s a superb product! On the other hand, I have not a clue when it comes to coffee. I don’t drink the stuff. Even more confusing, Julia’s recipe doesn’t indicate if it’s liquid, drinkable coffee or ground coffee. I had to make an intuitive guess. From my experience, when you add water to melted chocolate, it makes the it go all funky and it becomes pretty unusable. So I decided to use instant coffee grounds instead. That would have a better chance of blending in with the rest of the ingredients. (Note: the instant coffee grounds worked, but 2 Tbsps was a bit much. If I use this method again, I’ll reduce the measurement.)
The “small saucepan set over almost simmering water” is, in essence, a double-boiler. Another method that works quite well is melting the chocolate in a microwave at 30 second bursts. (Make sure it’s in a microwavable bowl.) The nice thing about the double-boiler method is that once it is removed from the heat source, the hot water will keep the chocolate melted for a while.
Step 4:
- A wire whip
- 2 Tbsp potato starch/flour, OR 2 1/2 Tbsp rice starch/flour, OR 3 Tbsp cornstarch
- 1 cup milk
- A 4-cup saucepan
- 1/3 cup granulated sugar
Beat the starch and 3 tablespoons of the milk in the saucepan until blended and smooth. Beat in the rest of the milk, and the sugar. Stir over moderate heat until the boil is reached. Boil and stir 3 seconds; this will be very gluey, especially if you use potato starch. Off heat, beat in the hot melted chocolate until well blended.
I didn’t have a wire whisk, so I used a silicon plastic one instead. (It handles the high temperatures quite well.) As for the choice of starch, I selected cornstarch as it was what I had in the house. It took the milk and cornstarch a while to reach boiling, but when it did, it went to “gluey” almost immediately!
Step 5:
- A rubber spatula
- 2 Tbsp softened butter
Clean off the sides of the saucepan and divide the butter over the sauce. Allow it to cool until it is tepid.
The instructions are a little vague here. “Divide the butter over the sauce”—and then what? The butter just sits on top of the chocolate? Not having a clue what was being said, I cut the butter into two 1 Tbsp squares and stirred it into the chocolate.
Step 6:
- 5 egg whites
- Pinch of salt
- 1 Tbsp granulated sugar
Beat the egg whites and salt together in a separate bowl until soft peaks are formed; sprinkle on the sugar and beat until stiff peaks are formed.
I decided to do this by hand. I eventually managed to get both the soft peaks and stiff peaks to form. Next time, I’m going to use an egg beater. (Julia includes a helpful guide about making the peaks, but they’re on a totally different page. If you don’t know how to make soft or stiff peaks from egg whites, read it ahead of time, preferably before starting this recipe. It’s next to impossible to read it while you’re beating the eggs!)
Step 7:
- A 3-quart mixing bowl
- A rubber scraper
- 3 egg yolks
Scrape the chocolate sauce into the mixing bowl. Beat in the three egg yolks, which may be added all at once. Stir in one fourth of the egg whites; delicately fold in the rest. Turn the soufflé into the prepared mold, leaving at least 1 1/4 inches between the top of the soufflé and the rim of the mold.
Pretty simple stuff here. I even know what is meant by “folding”. What I didn’t know was how to “turn the soufflé”. Turn it? Turn it how? So what I ended up doing was pretty much pouring the soufflé mixture into the mold.
Step 8:
- Powdered sugar in a shaker
Bake in the middle level of preheated oven. In about 35 minutes, or when soufflé has risen about an inch over the top of the mold, rapidly sprinkle top with powdered sugar. Bake another 10 minutes, making about 45 minutes in all. Soufflé is done when a straw or knife, plunged into the side of the puff, comes out clean.
At 35 minutes I opened the oven and sprinkled the powdered sugar on the soufflé. It had risen a little over the top of the mold, but nowhere near an inch. I gently slid it back into the oven and let it cook for 10 minutes more. At about 45 mintues, it was done. The knife came out clean.
The result

Although I didn’t totally understand all of the instructions given, I was able to make a tasty soufflé. Julia managed to teach me a new dish—one that I plan on making again in the relatively near future.
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